Powertap setup zero torque

I zeroed the torque, and all seemed ok, although still slightly high. I did a torque test to see what the value was recording, and it was , not Is this a shot torque tube? Would this lead to high or low power numbers? It zeros when I coast, but my concern is that it is going to negative numbers Quote Reply. Post 2 of 19 views. Post 3 of 19 views. Ok- but when I do the CPU torque woth a stationary bike and no load, it registers , and zero on top. My understanding is that it should be , , and zero.

It does zero, but am I getting an accurate power reading with torque below Post 4 of 19 views. I don't have much to add to your problem but I share your pain.

I had my powertap's torque offset checked recently after I noticed my power numbers falling drastically within the last few months. The torque offset came back at !

Acceptable range from Cycleops is between and I have to send mine back to have it recalibrated and a full rebuild done. Post 5 of 19 views. Yep- I talked to them, and they said is so close to the limit that I shouldn't both with a rebuild yet. Just have to deal with mildly fluky numbers. Post 6 of 19 views. Is your wheel still within warranty?

If it is, I would send it back if it were me. Post 7 of 19 views. Nope- got it used. An older Pro wired version. Post 8 of 19 views. It's not a big deal, as long as it's consistent. Post 9 of 19 views. Sorry, bringing your thread back from the dead. Dealing with a similar issue right now. Did you resolve this somehow? Send it in for service or did you just end up needing to replace it? Re: Powertap torque question [3carlos] [ In reply to ] Quote Reply. Post 10 of 19 views.

There's some misinformation in this thread. The first time you ride outdoors only. If you set up additional bike profiles, a one-time calibration ride will be needed for each additional bike as well. The reason for zeroing a power meter is to zero or cancel out any residual torque that has built up in the power meter from previous rides, temperature changes or installations.

The InfoCrank was constructed and designed so that torque never accumulates in the strain gauges. We do recommend performing a zero in the event of a crash however, as an impact to the crankset can mess with your offset values. The terms 'power meter calibration' and 'zero-offset' often get used interchangeably. However in reality, they Super helpful. I had searched quite a bit to find these instructions. Thank you!

Hi Alana. Thank you for this! We are happy to help you if there is anything else we can do. Ride safe! Your email address will not be published. Calibration and Zero-Offset While the terms calibration and zero-offset are often used interchangeably, they are in fact two separate, distinct procedures. General Zero Procedures While the steps taken to zero each power meter vary slightly, the general process is the same.

When you perform a zero, you should be off of the bike and the pedals should be completely unweighted. In addition, the bike should be perfectly vertical On your bicycle computer or app, navigate to the calibration page and select Calibrate. Sometimes, the head unit will continue to search for these before proceeding to the calibration procedure One Last Note…Auto Zero As you will see below, some power meters have a feature called Auto Zero. How to Zero Your Power Meter: Steps for Each Power Meter Based on which power meter you have, please find the corresponding steps below which will outline how to zero your power meter correctly.

Favero Assioma Zero-Offset Steps When: After installing your power meter for the first time and when you move the power meter between bikes. If not, repeat the calibration procedure again. The head unit might also include a number in the calibration successful message like 5 or Steps: Spin the cranks backwards a few times to wake up the power meter.

The head unit will also include a number in the calibration successful message which corresponds to your zero offset value. With SRM power meters, you typically want to see a value of between You want to see a value of between You can also perform a zero-offset using the StagesPower app on your mobile device.

Because of the patented PowerTap design, torque is transferred through the hub to the non-drive side. Failure to adhere to this precaution will void the warranty.

The PowerTap system includes a power-measuring hub which measures torque and wheel speed. This information is transmitted via digital radio frequency to a receiver mounted on the rear seat stay. The receiver transfers the data via a wired signal to a computer mounted on the handlebar or stem. Heart rate data is transferred via A non-coded telemetry signal from the chest strap monitor.

The data is then integrated to display current, average, and maximum biometric information. The PowerTap SL hub comes either alone or in a pre-built wheel. If purchased alone, the hub must be built into a complete wheel prior to use. Other items necessary for installation and not provided include a cassette, spoke protector, reflectors, skewer, rim strip, tire, and tube clincher rim or glue and tubular tire tubular rim.

Freehub bodies may be interchanged. The PowerTap is available in mm and mm axle lengths. Only insert the correctly spaced PowerTap hub into your frame. For example, only use a mm-spaced hub in a mm road frame.

Do not force the hub into any frame. Doing so may cause failure of the frame, hub, or both, and will void the warranty. Contact your dealer or Saris Cycling Group to address any special compatibility concerns. Contact a wheel building professional or dealer for assistance in building the PowerTap SL wheel if not purchased as a complete wheel.

Both sides of the PowerTap should be built using only a 3x spoke lacing pattern. Due to the design of the hub, the load pattern is not the same as a conventional hub. Slotting the hub flanges to accommodate bladed spokes is not recommended and will void the warranty.

The receiver shoe can be mounted on either the handlebar or stem. Secure the receiver shoe. Cadence can be measured via two methods, wired pedal and wireless hub. To measure cadenced via the wired method install the pedal cadence wire and the cadence magnet to the crank arm.

Ensure the center of the magnet passes the wired end of the sensor unit. No installation is required for the wireless cadence method.

Place the computer into the mounting shoe on the handlebar or stem. NOTE: Ensure the computer is fully inserted onto the receiver shoe for proper data transmission. The strap should rest just beneath the pectoralis muscles.

For best results slightly moisten the electrodes where contact is made with skin. The heart rate strap must be worn to enable the heart rate function.

Check to make sure all components are properly secured. This indicates the hub is properly transmitting a signal to the receiver and computer. If the transmission icon is not illuminated consult. Welcome to ManualMachine.